Post includes below the crochet pattern for rosy tea cosy.
My son is very funny. The other morning he was woken by his little sister about an hour before he’s actually ready to get up (as tested by us letting him stay up only to have an angry bear on our hands for the day). My husband, desperately trying to get at least one of them back to sleep, deposited the wee man in our bed while admitting defeat with herself and heading downstairs for another 6am father-daughter breakfast. After 7 I woke to the sounds of heavy breathing through a snotty nose and a little man voice saying: ‘The king has a cold.’ snuffle, snuffle. ‘I am the king.’ He’s hilarious!
Now, however much I love those kids, I have to say my new tea cosy is really a new challenger for the prettiest thing I’ve ever made. I saw this on Pinterest a while back and added it to the list of things I’d surely get around to doing over Christmas. For once, I actually did and I really am in love.
The original tutorial I based this on – and which gives way more detail, than I will is at: http://www.whydidntanyonetellme.blogspot.ie/2012/04/sharing-tea-cosy-love.html.
I made this pattern as a perfect fit for our pot – which is tall and skinny. The big advantage is that this is a very snug fit but the obvious disadvantage is that the day the pot breaks, my poor cosy is an orphan. The next one I make will be bigger and could fit any pot so I’ll post that pattern next.
Working this up is really quick – about 6 / 8 hours including the flowers being stitched on which is a little slow. I did a quick practice run of the body of the cosy in a plain DK wool I have stashed but to be honest the cosy was going to be too thin so I did it again using Louisa Hardings Fleuris- which I have bags of. In the end the grey, pink and green are all Fleuris and the chunky effect is really nice.
I used a 4mm hook, and a needle for sewing in at the end.
Keeping my pot beside me as I went, I was able to see how the fit was.
It helps to see the shape you are making first so here’s a photo of the laid out body of the cosy – before I started decreasing for the top. The hole is for the spout. You don’t worry about the handle as that will be accommodated on the open side when it is seamed together (see pics below).
I first made a foundation chain that went snugly around the base of the pot. Mine needed 53 stitches. Now you just proceed in half-triples as follows:
Ch2, done one HTC(i.e. yarn over, insert into the loop, yarn over, draw through the chain, yarn over and draw through the three loops to complete) into the third stitch from the hook and continue along the row to complete a full row of HTCs.
Ch2, turn the work and complete rows of HTCs until the work meets the bottom of the spout.
Measuring your work against the pot have a look at the width of the spout measured against your stitches. My spout was roughly 5 stitches wide so I wanted to leave a 5st gap. Simply 53 stitches – 5 = 48, divided by 2 equals 24. So my right and left hand side will be 24 stitches wide separated by a 5 stitch gap.
So, starting from the outside edge, Ch 2, and do 24 HTCs, turn the work, Ch2, 24 HTCs, and repeat until you have reached the top of the spout. Complete with your row ending in the middle i.e. finish with a WS row. Fasten off and break the yarn.
From my trial run I noticed I was better cutting the spout gap short rather than long. If too long the gap really opens up and the front of the cosy doesn’t look great. Whereas if you’re even just below the top of the spout the work curves up and over and looks well.
Starting on the left hand side and in the middle, count the five stitch gap and attach your yarn. Ch2, and complete your 24 HTCs across. Repeat as the other side until both are equal. Finish on the ‘outside’ of the work and do not break the yarn,
To join up the sides, starting from the outside of the left-hand-side, Ch2, complete 24 HTC’s, make 3ch, complete 24HTCs.
Note: in the original pattern the lady did a think she called a ‘single crochet chainless foundation stitch’ – a mouthful in itself! I may have been under the weather but I really couldn’t get the hang of that at all so I did a chain of three and it worked perfectly.
Now keep working on rows of 51 HTC’s until you reach the point where the teapot starts to curve at the lid.
For the next rows you want to work in decreases to close the gap over the top of the lid. Initially I followed the suggestion and did these in HTC’s into every second stitch but the work was very puckered so I ripped it back and did full triples instead (i.e.yarn over twice, insert into the loop, yarn over, draw through the chain, yarn over, draw through two more, yarn over and and draw through to complete) in every second stitch. Complete a number of rows until the work is closing over the top of the pot. Fasten off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
|Double triples used to complete the top of the cosy|
Before sewing up, measure the work against the pot again and if you’re happy, simply darn the seam from the top of the cosy to the top of the handle, fasten off and sew in the ends.
|Details of the back seam and button hole|
At the lower end you’re going to create a small loop (simply attach yarn to say the right hand side, ch 10 and loop back around to attach back to the right handside) and sew a button on the opposite side.
The flowers take no time and are made as a long stretch of petals that you then roll and stitch. A great tutorial is here: http://www.pompomemporium.com/content/crocheted-flowers-roses. I found these way easier then flowers worked in rounds as its far easier to count back over your petals and see how you’ve done.
I based my leaf pattern on the original but as I got more confident / cocky I tweaked it to make each a bit different looking (a great way to also hide mistakes!)
Ch10. Working into one side of the chains only, make a TC into the 3rd chain, a half double-triple into the next, a TC into the next and a HTR into the next. SC into the remaining 3 chains. Turning the work to do the opposite side, SC into the first three chains, HTR into the next, TC into the next, half-double-triple into the next and a triple crochet ito the next. SC into the last chain and StSt into the next. At this point, on a few of the leaves I made little stalks from simple foundation chains so I could attach the leave slightly set apart from the flowers.
Note: on typing up these notes I really doubted my leaf making instructions so I took out my hook and checked back and they are grand – see pics below.
Now just position and attach your flowers as you like them and job done!
P.S. There is plenty of insulating cosiness in the Fleuris wool but if you wanted to use up a lighter wool you could easily do this with double strands or else just felt line the finished cosy.